Djerba: "Jerusalem of North Africa"

This report was written by Stefan, a young cantor and musician from Belgrade who went to Djerba for two weeks of study. He is the chazzan for Serbia and Macedonia and a talented oud player. JDC sponsored his cantorial training in Belgrade and Jerusalem and brought him to Tunis and Djerba first to sing --- at the Old Age Home and the Chabad School in Tunis and then at the Yeshiva in Djerba. He then returned on a second, longer visit so that he could learn from a true master, Ja'akov, the many traditional songs and chants.

"To be able to describe Djerba and the life there properly I would need to be a novelist or a poet. The community of Djerba has preserved its ancient traditions, customs and intimate knowledge of the Law, the execution of which is its main preoccupation. Despite that I noticed that people have begun to feel the change of time and life around them and that they are in some ways adapting, accepting and finding wise solutions to cope with profound social, political and technological changes.

At first glance Hara Kebira seems like any other Tunisian or North African Arab village: narrow, dusty alleys which are difficult to distinguish, little white-blue houses with arches, a few lonely palm trees. The people I meet have the familiar look of suspicion of strangers. These looks don't make me feel good. Then I see a group of kids with kippot coming back from school, and it is as if I have suddenly entered a Jerusalem neighborhood and my feelings of annoyance slowly disappear. Perhaps it is not strange that this reminds me of Jerusalem, I read that the Djerban community was called the "Jerusalem of North Africa" and it dates its existence back to the time of the First Temple. After my initial tour around the Hara I discover a very lively Jewish life: synagogues, schools, yeshivas, communal Shabbat ovens, shops with Hebrew signs and even a few kiosks with "kosher" signs selling something called brik. I taste this new food, fried dough with an egg and a few very hot spices inside, with interest. I describe it because in Djerba everyone eats brik.

My teacher and host is Jaakob, a person who I soon realize is very well respected and admired by all generations in Djerba. He is an old man in his nineties dressed in white billowing oriental trousers which reach just below his knees and is wrapped in a burnous, a wool blanket which goes over his head and over his red chechia. Actually all of these are typical items of traditional Tunisian attire. When we meet for the first time he is returning from synagogue after the morning prayers. Besides the three regular prayer services he spends the afternoon reading psalms, and sometimes he spends the whole night in synagogue. However he also finds time for family, friends, music, market, and I have the feeling that his day has more than 24 hours. He has an amazing energy.

Standing at the front door of my host's house I am frequently approached by someone new. With unexpected interest they ask me many questions about how Jews are treated and live in Yugoslavia. I feel their tremendous compassion, care and identification with all Jews around the world which suddenly makes me feel very close to them. The discussions typically end with an invitation for Shabbat. The simplicity and sincere hospitality that I feel is enormous. They explain that I would be doing them a favor if I came to eat at their home at any time-- "like a brother" they tell me.

In the Hara Kebira there are 12 synagogues and one closer to the center of the city. In these 13 synagogues (this number is often mentioned by many with special pride) you can find several successive mynanim for each service. One group is leaving while the other is starting. The synagogues are oriental and beautiful, painted in blue and white with a set of arches and a big wooden teva that is usually in the middle.

Participation in the prayer service and the rituals is universal and there is no hierarchy. The chazzan or cantor can be any member of the community and the melodic pattern is simple, enabling the whole community to participate during the entire service. In most of the synagogues you can find a large number of signs on the wall such as: "If you talk in the synagogue, where will you pray?" or "During the reading of the Torah talk is forbidden". The purpose of these signs is clearer to me now that I see that everybody is talking in synagogue. Before, during and after the service people talk about business, life, news and gossip. Life takes place around the prayers and around the synagogue, which is literally the house of the assembly (beit hakneset). It is possible that this is one of the most beautiful things I experienced in Djerba.

Children aged 4-14 learn in Jewish school and upon finishing many of them start to work and earn money. At one moment the yeshiva was left without students and the community was in danger of being left without future rabbis and chahamim. This was settled by giving, what we would call, scholarships to people who decided to study. The community uses all its means to support knowledge. These young people repay the community by working as teachers in the same elementary school they themselves finished not long ago.

In addition to the synagogue and family life there is another element to life. In order to be complete, successful and respected in the Hara you must establish yourself as a craftsman or merchant. I notice that the market is a place of interaction between Jews and Muslims and it is also an arena in which important aspects of identity, self-image and mutual perceptions are defined and enacted.

Shabbat, Shabbat, Shabbat. The evening service in the synagogue is short because the real ceremony begins at home. Shabbat brings life to every corner of the house, from the youngest to the oldest family members. Although I have received many invitations, my hosts won't let me go anywhere, at least during the evening. Throughout Shabbat everyone is visiting one another, people are moving around from house to house drinking and eating. The festivities continue late into the night.

My acquaintances and friends have again gathered this time for a brit mila. The birth of a boy and his circumcision (brit - the "covenant") are causes for great joy. A red blanket hangs over the door of the house where the brit will take place as a sign for everyone to come and join the circumcision celebration. I am told that one does not have to be invited-all are welcome.

According to popular belief, the demons - headed by Lilith - are jealous of those blessed with a son who will soon fulfill the mitzvah of circumcision. This belief maintains that the demons are increasingly dangerous as the circumcision approaches, particularly the night before it is performed. Therefore the celebration and the ritual start the evening before the circumcision. People gather to sing songs for the Brit Mila in Hebrew and Judeo-Arabic, eat, drink and enjoy the celebration.

Through the evening they read chapters from the Zohar in order to disperse the demons from the child. The excitement culminates with the arrival of the mohel. Of course the whole ceremony finishes with food and songs.

While collecting impressions the picture of my stay in Djerba is becoming clearer and I am realizing that the thing that is most engraved in my heart is the beauty and piousness of the house in which I stayed. Jaakob, this wise and energetic man, raised his large family, in a manner where respect, love and care for one another are ever-present.

On the morning when I left, he put his hands on my head and I received his blessing. The pictures and moments of my stay in Djerba are becoming more and more precious. Every day I hope that this friendship won't be cut off and that soon I will be there again."